登顶无捷径
No Shortcuts to the Top
Ed Viesturs · 初版 2006 年
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十八年来，Viesturs 一直在追逐攀登界的终极圣杯：在不使用瓶装氧气的情况下，登顶全球十四座 8,000 米级高峰。在回顾他那些最惊心动魄的攀登历程时，他展现了一个在与挚爱共享的安全世界与只有他能踏足的壮美而致命的绝境之间挣扎的男人。作为一个曾在距离珠峰之巅 300 英尺处折返的谨慎登山家，却未在已知每两人登顶就有一人丧命的险峰（Annapurna）前退缩，Viesturs 拥有一句坚定的座右铭：“登顶是可选的，下山……”
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……在 8000 米级高峰里，珠峰算相对容易的了 [1]。安纳普尔那峰的死亡率是 38%（2007 年数据）[2]，K2 是 25% [3]。想看关于珠峰遇难事件的有意思的讨论，可以看看这个 [4]。如果你想多了解一些，Ed Viesturs 的《巅峰没有捷径》（No shortcuts to the top）和 Jon Krakauer 著名的《进入空气稀薄地带》（Into thin air）都是关于这个主题的好书。[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eight-thousander [2] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annapurna [3]……
…Everest is considered as on the easier side for an eight-thousander [1]. Annapurna got %38 (2007 figures) [2] and K2 got %25 [3]. For some interesting discussion on Everest fatalities, try this one [4]. "No shortcuts to the top" by Ed Viesturs and the well known "Into thin air" by Jon Krakauer are two good books on the subject, if you want to read more. [1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eight-thousander [2] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annapurna [3]…
《巅峰没有捷径》（No Shortcuts to the Top）虽然不再是新书了，但写得非常棒，尤其是拿来和《进入空气稀薄地带》（Into Thin Air）对照着看，能起到很好的平衡作用。
No Shortcuts to the Top is no longer a new book, but it's a great read, especially as something of a counterbalance to Into Thin Air.
Ed Viesturs 和 David Roberts 合著的《巅峰没有捷径：攀登世界 14 座最高峰》（No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks）讲述了 Viesturs 的整个职业生涯，并极为详尽地记录了他在山上处理安全问题的方式。我们全家都超级喜欢这本书，……
"No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks" by Ed Viesturs and David Roberts tells the whole career of Viesturs and a great account of his way of handling safety on the mountain. My whole family loved it,…
Ed Viesturs 的自传《巅峰没有捷径》（No Shortcuts to the Top）讲得很透彻——你可以看到他是如何存钱、打各种零工、拉赞助来筹资去登珠峰、K2 和其他大山的。他会把一次行程全都规划安排好，然后就会……
Ed Viesturs' biography, "No Shortcuts to the Top", covers this well - you can see how he saves money, works various jobs, and pursues sponsorships to fund his Everest, K2, and other big-mountain expeditions. He'd get a trip all organized, then it will…
我觉得 Roberts 写的《逃离卢卡尼亚》（Escape from Lucania）和 Viesturs 写的《巅峰没有捷径》（No Shortcuts to the top）也都很棒。Roberts 的个人回忆录《在生死边缘》（On the ridge between life and death）我倒是不太感冒。
I thought Escape from Lucania and by Roberts and No Shortcuts to the top by Viesturs were both good as well. I did not care for Roberts personal memoir On the ridge between life and death.
在《巅峰没有捷径》（No Shortcuts To The Top）[1] 里，Viesturs 对吸氧这个话题着墨更多——具体原话我记不清了，但他大致是这么说的：> 我更喜欢无氧攀登，但在带队登珠峰时，……
In _No Shortcuts To The Top_,[1] Viesturs gave more treatment to the topic of oxygen - I don't remember the exact quote, but he said something to the tune of: > I prefer to climb without oxygen, but when guiding groups up Everest,…